Coral is one of the most fascinating — and misunderstood — materials in jewellery making. Some makers treat it like a gemstone, others assume it’s endangered, and many don’t realise that “red coral” can mean anything from a rare Mediterranean treasure to a dyed bamboo bead.

This guide breaks down the real differences between coral types, how they behave on the bench, what’s natural, what’s treated, and how to choose the right coral for your designs.

Whether you’re stringing beads in Perth, carving pendants in Sydney, or building a jewellery brand in Melbourne, this is your definitive Australian guide to coral.

In This Guide

• What Coral Actually Is (And Why Makers Love It)
• Types of Coral Used in Jewellery
  • Precious Mediterranean Coral (Corallium rubrum)
  • Italian Coral
  • Taiwan Bamboo Coral
• How Bamboo Coral Differs from Precious Coral
• A Sustainable-Leaning Alternative
• Sustainability & Ethics
• Care & Maintenance

What Coral Actually Is (And Why Makers Love It)

Coral isn’t a mineral — it’s an organic gemstone formed from the hardened skeletons of tiny marine organisms. Over time, these structures grow into beautiful branches that can be cut, carved, and polished.

Makers love coral because it:

• takes a soft, glowing polish
• comes in natural reds, pinks, peaches, and whites
• has a warm, organic feel
• carries cultural and historical significance

But not all coral is the same — and that’s where most confusion begins.

Types of Coral Used in Jewellery

Here’s a simple guide to the varieties most relevant to makers.

Precious Mediterranean Coral (Corallium rubrum)

This is the most prized coral species in the jewellery world.

• Species: Corallium rubrum
• Region: Mediterranean Sea
• Colours: deep red, oxblood, salmon, angel skin
• Hardness: Mohs 3–4
• Structure: dense, fine-grained, solid colour throughout
• Uses: heirloom jewellery, carving, premium beads

This is the coral used in antique cameos, rosaries, and high-end jewellery.

Italian Coral

Mediterranean precious coral (Corallium rubrum) is found across the Mediterranean Sea, including the coasts of Italy, Spain, Sardinia, Corsica, Greece, Tunisia, Algeria, and Morocco.

“Italian coral” refers to Corallium rubrum that is traditionally harvested or carved in Italy — especially in Torre del Greco, the historic centre of coral craftsmanship.

Italian coral is known for:

• exceptional carving skill
• fine polishing
• strict harvesting regulations
• consistent quality

If you sell Italian coral, you’re offering the premium tier of precious coral.

Taiwan Bamboo Coral

Bamboo coral is a real coral species and it is:

• a real coral species,
• naturally pale beige
• almost always dyed red
• usually stabilised with resin
• sometimes reconstituted (powder + resin)

It gets its name from its bamboo-like growth rings, which can appear as faint striations once dyed.

In contrast, Italian precious coral is smooth and even, with a porcelain-like texture and no visible grain.

Reconstituted Coral

Reconstituted coral is made from:

• coral powder
• resin
• dye

It is pressed into beads or cabochons. Affordable, consistent, and widely used in fashion jewellery.

Imitation Coral

Imitation coral is not coral at all. It is usually made from:

• plastic
• resin
• glass

It is often too perfect, too light, or too cheap compared with genuine coral.

A Sustainable-Leaning Alternative

Bamboo coral is considered a more abundant and lower-impact alternative to precious coral, making it a popular choice for makers seeking a sustainable-leaning option.

How Bamboo Coral Differs from Precious Coral

While both are used in jewellery, precious Mediterranean coral and Taiwan bamboo coral have distinct properties and appearances.

Feature	Precious Coral	Bamboo Coral
Colour	Natural, solid	Dyed
Texture	Smooth, porcelain-like	May show Grain / faint striations
Structure	Dense, fine	Porous, fibrous
Value	High	Affordable
Typical Uses	Carving, heirloom pieces	Fashion jewellery, bold designs

Coral Hardness & Durability

All corals — precious or bamboo — fall around Mohs 3–4.

This means coral:

• scratches easily
• reacts to acids (sweat, perfume, vinegar)
• shouldn’t be worn in water
• isn’t ideal for rings or bracelets
• is perfect for earrings, pendants, and protected settings

Coral Treatments

Most coral on the market is treated in some way.

Common treatments include:

• dyeing (especially bamboo coral)
• resin stabilisation
• heat treatment
• reconstitution

Precious Mediterranean and Italian coral are usually untreated, aside from polishing.

Sustainability & Ethics

• Precious coral does not form reefs.
• Harvesting is strictly regulated in Italy, Taiwan, and Japan.
• No dredging is allowed.
• Only licensed divers can collect coral.
• Many coral species are protected, but Corallium rubrum is not currently CITES-listed.

Educating customers on this builds trust and authority.

Using Coral in Jewellery Making

Tips for makers:

• use soft polishing cloths
• avoid ultrasonic cleaners
• drill slowly — coral can chip
• use bead reamers gently
• protect coral from metal tools
• choose pendants and earrings over rings

Care & Maintenance

Coral is sensitive. To maintain its colour and finish over time:

• avoid perfume, hairspray, sunscreen
• avoid sweat and seawater
• store separately from harder stones
• wipe gently after wearing
• never use chemical cleaners

Coral Colour Meanings

• Red coral: vitality, protection, strength
• Pink coral: love, compassion, femininity
• Angel skin: purity, calm, emotional balance

Shop the Corals Mentioned

Explore the materials featured in this guide:

• Italian Coral – premium Corallium rubrum.
• Taiwan Bamboo Coral – dyed and stabilised bamboo coral for bold, affordable, sustainable‑leaning designs.
• Related Organic Gems: Explore our Pearls collection for a classic pairing.